The tenon saw (below), also known as a back saw, has a blade stiffened with a heavy metal strip folded over its top edge. It is a good, all-purpose woodworking saw, and has fine teeth filed at an angle, which allow it to cut across the grain of timber without tearing the fibres.
The frame saw is fitted with very fine blades for cutting curves. To stop the blade from bending it is held secure in a frame. A coping saw blade is held between two pins that swivel so you can turn in the direction of the cut while the frame is held clear. It is one of the most useful frame saws because its teeth are coarse enough to cut thick timber as well as thin hoards.
This is also known as the compass or keyhole saw because it is used for cutting holes in panels. It has quite a wide blade, so a pad saw is good for straight cuts in thick timber.
Circular saws are available as attachments to electric drills, but a purpose-made one is more powerful. It is used for straight cuts in timber and board, but is normally limited to a maximum depth cut of 40mm (1-X,in). More versatile is the jigsaw, which will take a range of blades and has variable speeds. A power jigsaw can cut both straight and curves and is easy to operate – once you learn to keep the pressure constantly against the surface of the wood.
Using a Rip Saw
A rip saw cuts wood along its length. Set the work at an angle and height so you can look directly down the line to be cut. When you start to cut, place the blade well to the waste side of the marked cutting line. Hold the blade at a low angle with your index finger pointing along the blade. Make a few initial dragging strokes to establish the cut, and then make gradually increasing strokes until you are using the full length of the blade.