DIY Plumbing

Sinks A choked waste pipe from a sink, basin or bath is indicated by slow or non-running waste water when the plug is removed. The first thing to do to try and clear the blockage is to use a plunger. The ‘old fashioned’ plunger is a simple – yet effective – hemisphere of thick rubber attached to a wooden handle. There are also modern variations including hand-operated air compressors, but essentially they all operate in the same way. Hold a damp cloth firmly against the overflow outlet with one hand and, with the other hand, place the rubber cup of […] Read More →

Nailing Through a Pipe Nailing a loose floorboard back into position can have serious consequences if you hadn’t realized that there was a pipe run underneath. If you do nail through a pipe, leave the nail there. If you have already pulled it out, put it back. Water will still leak but only slowly, causing less immediate damage. Switch off the water supply feeding the pipe and make a repair. Sealing a Leak Leaks caused by splits or holes in copper pipes should be permanently repaired by inserting a new section of pipe. But until you can do this, make […] Read More →

1 Measure and Cut Carefully measure the length of pipe needed, allowing extra for the entry into the fitting. With the pipe held securely – but don’t apply so much pressure that it is distorted – cut the pipe squarely with a fine-toothed hacksaw, or rotate a pipe cutter around the tube. 2 Adding Flux Copper must be clean and grease-free for a perfect soldered joint, so flux (a chemical cleaner) is applied to the metal to make a barrier against oxidization until solder is applied. Coat the ends of the pipe and fitting with flux then push the pipes […] Read More →

Many different materials have been used over the years for domestic pipe-work, so you may find various combinations of pipe materials in your home. While lead is no longer used for modern plumbing, many homes still have a lead rising main. This is fine, but any other lead plumbing should be replaced. Cast iron was most often used for soil pipes, and when these have rusted through they are generally replaced by plastic versions. Copper tubing is probably the most extensively used material: lightweight, easy to solder and bend, it can be used for both hot and cold water supplies. […] Read More →

Before you can work on any part of a plumbing system – even if you just want to change a washer on a tap – you will have to turn off and drain the water from it. A really useful DIY tip is to divide the system into relatively short runs of pipe by adding valves. Draining Cold Water Taps & Pipes Turn off the main stopcock to cut off the supply to the kitchen tap and every other cold tap on a direct system. Next, open the tap until the water stops flowing. To isolate bathroom taps, you’ll need […] Read More →

The Rising Main The main ‘artery’ of any household’s plumbing systems is the service pipe, more commonly known as the rising main. This connects the domestic plumbing system to the local water authority’s mains which runs under the pavements. The householder’s responsibility for the rising main begins at the water authority’s stop-cock, usually found in a pit in the footpath outside the house, which can only be turned on or off with one of the authority’s special shanked turn-keys. The rising main may be of lead in older buildings but most authorities have now replaced these with copper. The rising […] Read More →

Introduction The majority of modern baths are made from enamelled pressed steel, acrylic or glass-reinforced plastic. One advantage of these baths over the cast-iron variety, popular in Victorian houses, is that it takes at least two people to lift a steel bath while one person can manage a plastic one alone. An added bonus is that you do not need to make sure that the floor is strong enough to support the total weight of a heavy cast-iron bath, the water and its occupant. Modern baths generally possess levelling devices so they ‘sit’ correctly on the floor, while old cast-iron […] Read More →

A radiator that feels cool at the top and warm at the bottom has air in it, which must be ‘bled’ out. Each radiator has a bleed valve at one of its top corners, which is identifiable by the square-shaped shank in the centre. When you bought or had the radiators installed, you should have been given a bleed key. If this has been lost, then you can easily get a replacement from any DIY shop or hardware store. Buy a plastic keyring for it, label it clearly and keep it in one place so you always know where to […] Read More →

Insulation should be any home-owner’s or tenants’ priority. Where radiant heat is not contributing to keeping your home warm, the pipes and cylinders should be lagged. A hot water cylinder without a jacket may keep your airing cupboard warm but it’s wasting a great deal of energy. A lagged cylinder will keep a closed cupboard warm more efficiently. If you must have a warmer airing cupboard, don’t remove the cylinder jacket; instead, remove a little of the lagging around a hot water pipe. If you ever need to replace a cylinder, buy a pre-insulated one. If your cylinder is already […] Read More →

Basic plumbing skills would be useful. Good agility and dexterity are essential to work in cramped conditions. Ensure all metal pipes and the bath (if metal) are bonded to a common earth. Take care when using a blowlamp. Keep naked flames away from flammable material. Make sure that the water is off and well drained before placing a lead lamp near the underside of the taps. If possible, use a water-resistant double-insulated lamp. When working upside down, wear eye protection. Changing taps can give a new lease of life to a bathroom suite or kitchen, and modern fittings make the […] Read More →